February, 2011

The latest buzz in Japanese cuisine seems to be sake--witness the rise of the all too groovy Sake Restaurant in Sydney and Brisbane or Sake Sake in Cammeray, Sydney. Fujiyama in Surry Hills in Sydney is also popular due to its range of sake, we hear on the grapvine. It's the izakaya or Japanese pub phenomenon, and Australians are also embracing this nibbling-as-you-drink tradition. Iiza in Newtown is another example of this tradition, minus the good range of sake and the jovial raucousness of "authentic" izakaya in Japan.

The menu (all online) is simple and cheap, and wide ranging, and should please most palates. The "regular" sashimi platter we ordered was...well regular, but the "regular" (as opposed to "deluxe") sushi platter was quite impressive at $22, with not just the usual salmon and tuna fare, but with scallops, scampi--a nice variety that you often don't get in cheap eateries. Food is presented with care, with nice touches like real bamboo leaves to line dishes. The tempura is a good choice--it's not light and crisp, but very filling, served with green tea salt as well as tempura dipping sauce. The special Iiza roll, 6 norimaki pieces with a mixture of avocado, prawn, salmon and tobiko with a thin slice of daikon on the outside should please most Aussies who like big....

In fact, Iiza conforms to the image of what Australians perceive to be "authentic" Japanese cuisine--big, cheap and predictable (as in nothing too unusual on the menu). This is not criticism, for "authentic" is such a meaningless term--food culture is a living organism, much like language, and western versions of Japanese cuisine (which are often end up being re-imported to Japan--like California Rolls) can be considered a new offshoot. So while the stuffed lotus root covered with Tonkatsu Sauce and served with green tea noodles might not be "authentic", it's still as "Japanese" as the Kingfish Teriyaki. 

What's disappointing about Iiza though is the choice of sake or lack thereof--the 720 mL bottles on display at the bar are just that--for display, as are the big 1.8 L empty bottles lining the walls, which while they complete the Izakaya feel, are merely for effect. And our cold sake was served in tokkuri, which is usually used for hot sake--sake etiquette was a bit remiss, taking the fun of drinking sake out--Iiza is more restaurant than izakaya.

But this eatery is well placed (on King Street, Newtown which pumps on the weekend) and is a cheap, decent eatery, and a place well worth frequenting.

184 King Street, Newtown NSW 2042
Phone: 02 8095 9260
Email: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
Dinners: 5:30 p.m. till late, 7 days; Fully licensed and BYO Wine only

For eatability review of Iiza click here

by Masako Fukui

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