June, 2008

Azuma is one of those rare classy “authentic” Japanese restaurants where atmosphere, service and food come together (mostly) nicely. Located in Chifley Plaza in Sydney’s CBD, the restaurant is a bustling haven for suited types during the day, and the take-away menu is well patronised at lunch (and dinner) by blackberry toting “busy-people”.

But we like to go there at night, park on Level 4 (free parking with meal) and relax in the spacious dining room or in the cosy sushi bar. The menu items are well chosen with an eye to what the “locals” like (Aussie favourites like tempura, teriyaki meat, noodles) yet staying true to seasonal sensibilities-one of the principles of Japanese cuisine. The full menu is available on the informative Azuma website .

If you want something similar to kaiseki, splurge on the 10 course degustation menu ($110) or chef’s special degustation ($120-$300). The chef/owner Kimitaka Azuma doesn’t cut corners so it will be well worth it. (He was on the same Food Safari episode as us!) But for less audacious treats, the sushi is lovely, with such tiny morsels of sweet vinegared rice that we always end up eating too much. Prices hover around $3-$4 for each nigiri-zushi. The negi-toro (sushi rolls with fatty tuna and shallots; not on menu) was yummo, so we ordered another.

We started with the Seasonal Appetisers which included little dishes such as grilled cod marinated in saikyo miso, spinach in sesame dressing. It’s enough to share with 2-3 people. The tuna carpaccio with a smidge of sesame was delicious, as tuna is in season in winter, and the humble chawanmushi (egg custard) was spruced up with prawn and scallop, making it a rare treat.

Unlike most Japanese eateries, the wine and sake menu is innovative, and even includes Awamori, the paint stripper like drink from Okinawa, if you’re game. And the service by Japanese young waitresses was crisp yet friendly, though like many Japanese restaurants, service can be a bit irregular. What is really special about Azuma is the pottery that many of the meals are served on. Famous Japanese potter Mitsuo Shoji is Azuma san’s friend, and is rumoured to drop in with a large platter or two in exchange for a good feed. His bold platters look fabulous with delicately fashioned sushi, and Azuma is well worth the visit just to inspect the plates.

Our biggest gripe is the big flat screen television that constantly beams images of Japanese countryside into the restaurant. Why this screen is so prominent, or is even there is a mystery, as it spoils the otherwise classic ambience.

Prepare to spend at least $100 a head (without wine) for a good meal, and well worth every cent. There were a lot of well heeled customers the night we dined (nice handbags and designer suits), but while well behaved, it seemed some were not versed in Japanese cuisine. We were amused to see one woman confusing sushi with sashimi, ordering gari (pickled ginger) to eat with raw fish and hot rice. We also wondered why so much soy sauce came with our sushi, and the waitress told us that many Aussies like to splash soy sauce on their rice, which is akin to picking your nose with your knife…no, I'm exaggerating, but you get my drift.

Azuma should be on your list of Japanese eateries to go for special occasions, like family dinners, if you are keen to eat genuine well prepared Japanese food in Sydney.

Level 1, Chifley Plaza, 2 Chifley Square, Sydney
Phone: 9222 9960
Lunch: Monday to Friday from 12pm
Dinner Monday to Saturday from 6pm
Closed Sundays and Public Holidays

by Masako Fukui Copyright Kei's Kitchen (2008)